Discovering Amboise – A French Fairytale Town
What’s more magical than visiting a destination that feels like a real-life fairytale? Europe has many towns just like this, but Amboise, France, looks as if it has stepped out of Beauty and the Beast. Amboise is a small medieval town in the Loire Valley, about 140 miles outside Paris. It served as the final home of Leonardo da Vinci and features the famous Château Royal d’Amboise. The people are friendly, the food is outstanding, and if the walls could talk, we’d hear intimate conversations between da Vinci and King Francis I.
Amboise is one of many stops to make while touring the Loire Valley. The Loire has the highest concentration of castles in France - over 300 - many of which are considered some of the greatest Renaissance and Grand Siècle castles (“Châteaux”). Grand Siècle stands for the period of the 17th century under rule by Louis XIII and Louis XIV (the “Sun King”), otherwise known as the “Great Century” when France saw many cultural and artistic achievements. The Loire Valley is also one of France’s largest wine-producing regions, especially white and sparkling wines, but most notably - Sancerre.
The History.
The origin of Amboise can be traced back thousands of years, with the first documented mention being in the 6th century. From prehistoric times to the modern day, this small town has had a mighty role in French history. Before the Romans conquered what used to be Gaul, Amboise was occupied by the Celts, but the town we’re familiar with today really began in the Middle Ages.
Before the French kingdoms united, the Loire River was an important “road” for communication and transportation for the French monarchy between Paris and western France. Control over the river was vital to protect the crown and the land it ruled, particularly from England, with whom France was regularly at war. King Louis II made Amboise into a fortress in the 9th century, and after the Hundred Years’ War, it became a primary royal residence due to its stronghold. Many future Kings grew up and received their education in Amboise. During the Renaissance, Charles VIII began renovations to make Amboise a more modern Château, inviting Italian artists to contribute to its “upgrades.” The project was finished by Francis I, who later invited Leonardo da Vinci to live in nearby Château du Clos Lucé, where he spent the final years of his life. Tunnels were built between the Châteaux so that Francis and Leonardo could easily visit one another without traveling across town.
Amboise saw significant violence during the Wars of Religion. Thousands of Protestants were killed and hung in the city, which led the Royal Court to abandon the Château. From here, the town and castle representing so much of France’s rich Renaissance culture began to fall apart. The town and Château saw further struggles during the French Revolution when it was ransacked and looted and once again during WWII during the German invasion.
The Château.
Château Royal d’Amboise is notorious for the breathtaking 360-degree views of the Loire Valley. While smaller in size compared to many other castles in the region, the quaint size gives it a bit more charm. Amboise has been through its fair share of neglect and destruction, but the ongoing restoration efforts provide an inside look at what it might have been like during the height of its use during the French Renaissance.
A UNESCO World Heritage Site, Château Royal d’Amboise dates back to the 11th century. It was built on a promontory by the Count of Anjou overlooking the Loire Valley, which was a cornerstone of the defense strategy that made it such a strong fortress. As mentioned previously, the Château we know today was refurnished and reimagined during the Renaissance, primarily by Charles VIII and Francis I, both admirers of Italian art and culture. After the Second World War, an organization restored the Château to preserve its history and represent life during its most prosperous years. Amboise maintains a fairytale-like charm today thanks to the Renaissance influence that never truly disappeared.
Tours of the Château and town are available year-round, and there is much to see. Visit Saint-Hubert’s Chapel, sitting atop the castle gardens, to visit the resting place of Leonardo da Vinci. Tour the rooms throughout the castle that have been renovated to embody the height of Renaissance life. And finally, take in the magnificent gardens surrounding the castle that overlook the valley.
Leonardo da Vinci & Château du Clos Lucé
A claim to fame for Amboise is that it’s where Leonardo da Vinci spent his final three years of life and where his remains are (supposedly) buried — Note of Caution: don’t take this up with the Italians. Leonardo was gifted the residence of Château du Clos Lucé, where he lived with a few of his students. Today, it’s a museum showcasing unfinished and finished work along with ideas and inventions from the Renaissance mastermind he never had a chance to begin.
Château du Clos Lucé was built in the 15th century by the Amboise family – unsurprisingly, who the town was named after. Located just outside the town’s borders, Clos Lucé eventually became a summer home of the Kings of France before the Château Royal d’Amboise was modernized in the 16th century. A chapel decorated with four frescoes was built for Anne de Bretagne during its time as a royal residence. Having great respect for Leonardo’s brilliance and artistic mastery, Francis I invited him to reside in Amboise to serve as the “Premier Painter and Engineer and Architect of the King,” which is how the intellectual came to reside at Clos Lucé.
During his residence at Clos Lucé, Leonardo worked on many projects for the King and welcomed many notable visitors. As previously mentioned, underground tunnels were built between the two castles for easy access between Leonardo and the King. A portion of those tunnels still exist today but are not accessible to the public. The property is now a museum showcasing Leonardo’s life and work. From his early life to his journey through the Alps to France, his final days, and unfinished projects, Close Lucé offers a unique opportunity to experience the great adventure this brilliant man’s life truly was. While the museum is largely dedicated to Leonardo’s life and work, it additionally pays tribute to periods of history and other historical figures that have an attachment to Close Lucé, like Queen Anne de Bretagne.
The Fairytale Town.
The town of Amboise is as charming as the Château looking over it. Because of its popularity, Amboise has higher tourist traffic than similar towns within the Loire Valley, but it’s still worth a visit. The town features plenty of things to experience, including restaurants, bakeries, cafes, shops, and more. The gardens surrounding the castle provide unbeatable panoramic views of the valley, and the streets take you to a different place and time. This small town has so much charm that it’s impossible not to fall in love.
Another attraction Amboise has become known for is its Sunday Market (also available on Fridays). Browse vendors selling everything from meat and cheese to produce, furniture to clothing, accessories, art, and more. The market is the perfect weekend outing for visitors and locals. Make a day of it and finish with a picnic by the river. As with markets anywhere in the world, avoid the crowds by getting there early. The market takes place in the Place du Marchée beside the Loire River. It’s pretty large and busy but worth experiencing at least once.
